Discovering Tajikistan: Country You Didn't Know You Needed.
Since Tajikistan is, after all, a country where mountains outnumber people and hospitality is an Olympic sport, it should probably be your next surprising love affair. Nestled in the quiet middle ground between Afghanistan, China, Uzbekistan, and Kyrgyzstan, this Central Asian gem does its thing at the same time people are wandering into usual suspects like Thailand or Italy. But here’s the thing: Tajikistan doesn’t need the crowds. It includes the Pamir Mountains, turquoise lakes and plenty of fun to challenge even the most jaded traveler to question his or her life choices but in a positive way. And as soon as you land in Dushanbe, the capital, you’ll realise how the city remains remarkably peaceful for a national metropolis. It’s got wide boulevards, leafy parks and a rather odd, charming combination of Sovietism and shiny new monuments. One moment you’re looking at a statue of Ismail Somoni the medieval founder of the Tajik nation, the next you’re trying to understand how there is a flagpole that rises higher than almost all the buildings in the country. Dushanbe is the type of city that comes to life on your insides slowly, like a tea getting stronger the longer it sits. But the magic really starts when you leave the city and head into the Pamirs. Picture a travel experience along the Pamir Highway, one of the world’s tallest and most dramatic routes. It’s less a road and more a suggestion at times, but that’s part and parcel of the fun. You’ll go at some over 4,000 meters across the pass, wave at friendly shepherds who look to be in real enthusiasm when you pass by them and sometimes question if your driver has nerves of steel and, perhaps, no fear at all. The views are stunning, with snow-studded peaks and older fortresses and valleys that extend into another dimension. Then there’s the hospitality. The Tajik people do not just welcome visitors; they almost adopt them. Expect endless cups of green tea; bread, hot from clay ovens; and an endless reminder that you aren’t eating enough. Say “no” politely all you want, yet you’ll still end up with a full plate. In small towns, staying in a family homestay isn’t just a place to stay, it’s an immersion into the real world. Perhaps you’re helping milk a cow or trying to make plov, the region’s favourite rice food, and the host family observes your dodgy technique with amusement and praise. Tajikistan isn’t all postcard perfection, of course. The infrastructure can be (one might say) “creative.” Roads are often more pothole than pavement, and Wi-Fi is often a rumour rather than a fact of life. But maybe that’s the point. When you’re watching the sun set over Iskanderkul Lake or looking up at the stars brighter than any city night could possibly give you, you won’t be fretting about your signal strength. Tajikistan is NOT a place that asks to be liked. It’s a rugged, breathtaking and refreshingly real place. You will come for the mountains and remain for the people. And when you return, dusty and perhaps a bit sunburned, you’ll be wondering why other travellers aren’t talking about it. Then again, perhaps it’s a better choice. Some secrets are worth keeping. |
