Moraira town guide
Concealed between Jávea and Calpe, the livelier of Spain's resorts, the small sea town of Moraira is a humble secret that Spain has managed to keep. Once a small fishing town, this region of Costa Blanca has grown into an unpretentious but sophisticated resort where time seems to have stopped. Blessed with its mix of Mediterranean ambience, whitewashed houses, and sapphire coves, Moraira offers a less touristy alternative to Spain's commercially inclined seaside towns.
On the surface, the town's rhythm is hopelessly local. Mornings dawn with warm bread baking from miniature panaderías, and fishermen docking their morning catch at the marina. Lunchtime, locals and visitors converge in the main square, under palms, for a café con leche or an ice-cold glass of white wine. Despite its allure to tourists, Moraira has managed to hold onto its Spanish soul.
The beaches are one of the town's biggest draws. Playa de l'Ampolla, closest to the castle, is central and family friendly, with shallow water ideal for bathing. For something more tranquil, there is El Portet, a small, crescent shaped bay fringed with villas and pine covered hills, that's almost Caribbean in its clarity. Kayakers canoe back and forth across the calm water, while others bask on the beach, lulled by the soft kissing of waves.
Beyond the beaches, Moraira’s old town invites slow exploration. Narrow cobblestone streets wind past boutiques, tapas bars, and flower draped balconies. The Castillo de Moraira, an 18th-century fortress overlooking the sea, reminds visitors of the days when pirates once threatened these shores. Climb the nearby headlands, and you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views of the coastline, dotted with vineyards and almond groves that turn pink and white in spring.
Gastronomy is another feature. Restaurants in Moraira specialise in freshly caught seafood, grilled dorada, arroz a banda, and grilled octopus. Eating along the seafront is all about mood as much as sustenance. Witnessing the sunset as it colours the sea in golden hues, accompanied by local wine from the nearby Teulada, creates an experience that lingers long after the meal.
For the dynamic tourist, there is more to Moraira than sea and sun. The countryside is a patchwork of footpaths with hidden coves and viewpoints to be found. Cyclists take the hill roads which wind up into the Bernia Mountains, and divers explore the sea reserves where an assortment of life exists just off the coast.
But for all its growing popularity, Moraira has resisted being overdeveloped. No high rise hotels, no wild nightlife, just the soft lapping of waves, the rustle of laughter on a balcony, and the intoxicating scent of bougainvillaea blown on the evening wind. It's the kind of place individuals visit for a week, but captivated by its unpretentious beauty and effortless peace, they linger for a season.
In a world that is too fast, Moraira presents something unique: room to breathe, to relax, and to rediscover the simple pleasures of the Mediterranean. |
