Exploring Jacksonville

If you find yourself in the Sunshine State, you might naturally gravitate towards the neon hum of Miami or the mouse-shaped madness of Orlando. However, if you fancy something a bit more expansive, slightly more rugged, and surprisingly historic, you ought to point your hire car towards Jacksonville. Locally known as Jax, it is a city so sprawling that it feels less like a single town and more like several distinct villages that have somehow agreed to share a postcode and a very large river.

Upon arrival, the first thing one notices is the scale. Jacksonville is technically the largest city by area in the contiguous United States, which is a lovely way of saying you will be spending a fair bit of time behind the wheel. But the drives are worth it, particularly when you head towards the coast.

Start your morning at Atlantic Beach. It lacks the frantic, spring-break energy of its southern cousins, offering instead a serene stretch of white sand that feels genuinely restorative. I spent a good hour there attempting to look like a seasoned beach-goer, only to realize that my British pale-blue complexion is a natural deterrent to the Florida sun. The Beaches Town Center is the place to be for a spot of lunch. It is wonderfully walkable, filled with boutiques and cafes where you can grab a fish taco and pretend you know how to surf.

If you prefer your scenery with a bit of a skeletal twist, you must visit Big Talbot Island State Park. It is home to Boneyard Beach, a stretch of coast covered in the salt-washed, sun-bleached remains of cedar and oak trees. It looks like a graveyard for giants and is quite possibly the most photogenic spot in the state. I found it a perfect place for quiet reflection, or at least for trying to take a selfie that doesn't involve me squinting at the glare.

For a dose of proper culture, the Cummer Museum of Art and Gardens is a triumph. The art is impressive, certainly, but the riverside gardens are the real star. They are meticulously manicured, featuring a massive canopy of live oaks draped in Spanish moss that makes everything feel slightly like a scene from a Victorian novel set in the tropics. It is the sort of place that makes you want to carry a parasol and speak in hushed, sophisticated tones.

History buffs should wander over to Kingsley Plantation on Fort George Island. It is a sobering, well-preserved site that tells the complex story of Florida’s past. Walking through the slave quarters made of tabby, a mixture of oyster shells, lime, and sand, provides a visceral connection to the people who lived and worked here centuries ago. It is a quiet, heavy place that demands your attention.

Finally, no trip to Jax is complete without acknowledging the St. Johns River. It is one of the few rivers in the world that flows north, a geological quirk that residents are quite proud of. You can walk the Southbank Riverwalk at sunset to see the city lights reflecting off the water. Watching the water taxi zip back and forth, I couldn't help but feel that Jacksonville has managed a rare feat. It is a city that feels like a hidden gem despite being absolutely massive. It is unpretentious, surprisingly green, and just a little bit eccentric. Just remember to pack more sunblock than you think you need. Your skin will thank you.