Laos sits between Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, China and Myanmar, with no coastline at all. Mountains cover most of the country and the climate stays tropical, which suits anyone who'd rather walk or cycle than sit by a pool. Trekking, kayaking, rock climbing and caving are all on offer. Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng draw most visitors, while Phonsavan and Thakhek stay quiet for anyone who wants a week out of touch.
Buddhism shapes daily life here, and you'll see it in the temples and shrines on street corners all over town. Sticky rice comes with most meals, and the spicier dishes are worth seeking out. You don't need to look hard for a good table either. French colonial houses still stand in the old quarters, often within sight of a gilded temple roof, and wandering between the two makes a morning walk last far longer than planned.
For years Laos was closed to travellers. These days it's a backpacker's favourite and still receives far fewer tourists than its neighbours. That gap is the appeal. Small towns feel like a step back in time, and the Mekong runs through the middle of it all. The food is excellent. Beerlao, served cold, does the job in the afternoon heat. I'm told the river views at dusk are worth planning an evening around, though I haven't seen them myself.
Top spots in Laos
If quiet towns, pretty temples and rugged jungle sound like your kind of thing, Laos deserves a high place on your list. It's somewhere you can slow down and still find plenty to do. Here are a few of our top picks.
Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang earns its place on every list. The temples are ornate, the night market runs for several blocks, and the street cafes are made for watching the day pass. The town sits right on the Mekong, so boat rides upriver are easy to arrange. Kuang Si waterfalls are a short tuk-tuk ride away, and the pools there are cool and clear.
VientianeVientiane might be the sleepiest capital anywhere. The old French trading post keeps its colonial buildings, and monks walk the streets each morning. Pha That Luang glows gold through the day, and the small restaurants along the Mekong serve local dishes at their best around sunset. A handful of boutique hotels have opened near the river in recent years, and the service is quietly excellent, with staff who remember your name by the second morning.
Vang ViengVang Vieng had a rowdy reputation once. It has settled down, and the draw now is the country around it. Tubing down the Nam Song is the classic afternoon, with kayaking and caving close behind. The rock formations rise sharply from the rice fields, and the nearby villages look freshly painted. There are nine or ten operators in town running the river trips, so booking a day ahead is plenty.
Laos' Natural Wonders
Villages line the Mekong, the mountains stay green, and the jungle comes right up to the road. Public transport is slow going, though hop-on-hop-off routes cover the main stops if your time is short. Either way, the countryside rewards the journey, and most travellers end up wishing they'd allowed an extra day or two before their flight out of Vientiane.
