Tourism in Surat: The City It Never Stops Eating
If you’ve ever wondered what you’d do if a city came to the conclusion that only food, fabric and a dash of chaos were what it truly needed to survive. Surat, in the state of Gujarat, is your answer. It is called the “Diamond City” and the “Textile Hub of India,” so Surat appears to gather nicknames like a kid collects marbles, joyfully and impulsively. And yet, as much as it is known for work and wealth, it is one of those cities that somehow feels approachable like the rich uncle who wants to pay for lunch but complains about it anyway. Let’s begin with the food in Surat, food is everything starting and ending. Suratis love food. There’s an almost religious devotion to snacks here, primarily locho, ghari and sev khamani. Surat’s people eat as if the world might end tomorrow and that the apocalypse demands that they sample everything first. At 100 or so metres, no one can find someone frying, steaming, or serving something scents just mildly irresistible. And if you expect to find a quiet café to drink a cappuccino and read a book, good luck. You’ll almost certainly be dragged into a debate about which farsan shop is the most “authentic.” Then there’s the shopping. Surat is a paradise for someone who enjoys bargaining or pretends to know how textiles are made. The textile markets here are expansive, loud, and brimming with colors more than a wild Holi festival. Silk, cotton, georgette, you name it, they own it, usually at a “special price just for you.” You can’t get out without buying something that you didn’t mean to buy, even if it’s just a shawl you will never wear. Surat is well known for diamonds. Around the world, the world’s diamonds all but pass through this city for cutting and polishing. If you'd think the streets would sparkle at night with all that glitter, they do not. The diamonds shine softly behind the heavily guarded doors and the rest of us admire the glow of those streetlights. But there is something poetic about wandering through a city in which the creators of the world’s gems probably wouldn’t want to put on one themselves. For those who like some serious sightseeing, Surat has the Dutch Garden, Dumas Beach and the Sardar Patel Museum. Each has its own charm, if you’re up for the humidity and the occasional over-enthusiastic selfie crowd. Dumas Beach in particular has a mysterious tradition of being haunted, but the only actual thing that could make it creepy is the wind messing up your hair. Surat’s sweet spot is not that it takes such a great deal for you to admire. It has none of the grandeur of Delhi or the glamour of Mumbai, but there is an energy in it that feels real. The people are warm, the city vibrates with industry and there’s always something to cook, literally cook. So, if you’re ever in western India and feel hungry (for food or cloth), give Surat a try. You could leave with a full stomach, smaller wallet and a story about the time you purchased a saree just to get free snacks. |
