A Rather Sunburnt Romance with the Andaman & Nicobar Islands
There’s something about the Andaman & Nicobar Islands that makes you believe you’ve inadvertently stumbled into a postcard. The clear turquoise waters are blinding so that bottled mineral water seems murky, and the palm trees appear to be arranged by a perfectionist with too much time on their hands. But while this tropical paradise has the allure of an untrammeled Eden, it is also a gentle reminder that paradise has its share of mosquitoes of the same ilk. One who enters Port Blair, without a doubt, is reminded that “island time” is more than just a term, it is a lifestyle choice. The airport feels endearingly tiny, as if it’s just borrowed from a model train set, and the tempo of life seems set on imparting patience. It’s the type of place where you might smile when your luggage goes on a leisurely detour — what happens when you're surrounded by a view of the waves that would have your grumpiest aunt sigh wistfully? But a visit to the Cellular Jail wears that smile off. It’s a grim reminder of the British Raj and the horrors Indian freedom fighters experienced. The silence of the corridors lingers; you sense the burden of history pressing down, even hard. It’s a sobering process, one that becomes even surreal because on the side you’d be heading straight to a beach afterward, holding coconut water in your hand. Only in the Andamans can you swing back and forth between heavy national introspection and eager sunbathing in the span of an hour. Speaking of beaches, Radhanagar Beach on Havelock Island (sorry, Swaraj Dweep if we’re being honest) has been named among the best in Asia. You know why: The sand is so white it looks almost like it glows, and the water has a light filtered through Photoshop. You’ll tell yourself you’re there to “soak in nature,” but you’re really only looking for the ideal light for that one Instagram picture that tells the world you’re outdoorsy. Yes, of course, the irony in that you’re attempting to escape today’s existence, you’ll still be searching for Wi-Fi like some desert traveller in search of an oasis. Then there are the coral reefs. Snorkelling and scuba diving is non-negotiable here, unless of course you dislike breathing through a tube and looking like a clumsy sea creature anyway. Underneath, it’s an explosion of colour and marine life so mesmerizing that you almost can’t think how silly you are flapping about. The fish don’t judge. Probably. The food of the islands deserves its own applause, particularly if you enjoy eating seafood that was alive about fifteen minutes before it landed on your plate. There’s something extremely satisfying about enjoying grilled fish on a plate while gazing at the same ocean it emerged from, though the whole thing does seem slightly rude to the fish community. As you set out, tanned (or burnt), relaxed, a bit more philosophy provoking about life’s slow pace, you come to the conclusion that being on the Andaman & Nicobar Islands is not only about beauty. They’re about balance, the solemn and the joyful, the modern and the ancient, the peaceful and the mildly inconvenient. And if that couldn’t be a better metaphor for travel, I’m not so sure what is. |
