Exploring Durres in Albania

Have you ever considered to yourself, "I really need a beach, some Roman ruins, and a surprisingly chaotic amount of traffic all in one place." Albanian Durres might be just what your travel-starved heart has been looking for. One of those places where current beach culture and old history coexist uncomfortably but beautifully side by side. Imagine, a short walk from a line of cafes where people sip espresso while donning sunglasses costing more than my whole suitcase, a Roman amphitheatre dating back almost two thousand years.

Durres's coastline makes you quickly abandon any sensible intentions you might have and run directly for the sea. Sure, there are a lot of sunbeds on the long, sandy, and vibrant beach. You will probably wind up renting one even if you told yourself you would lie on your towel like a rugged adventurer. I gave that a shot and found that sand seems to have a gift for getting into every one of my pockets. Therefore, yes, purchase the tanning bed. Your dignity will be grateful to you. Durres' normalcy is among its finest aspects. This isn't a city trying too hard to impress you. It just exists, and little glimpses reveal its beauty. Perhaps the bakery selling flaky byrek warm from the oven is what is wanted. Maybe it is the man who is so dedicated to feeding every stray cat nearby. Perhaps the older men who sit on benches and seem to be talking about the end of the world are actually talking about football. The boardwalk then comes along. Evening turns into a procession of families, couples, youngsters on scooters, and someone's uncle who is really intent on winning at the arcade basketball game. The smell of sea salt and barbecued corn fills the air. Children plead for the light-up toys street sellers offer, and parents refuse them until they ultimately succumb. This is the spot if you want to people-watch.

Being only a short drive from Tirana, Durres is also among the most laid-back destinations near the capital. Depending on traffic and how bold your taxi driver feels that day, the journey may last anywhere from thirty minutes to an hour. Suppose Albanian drivers view traffic laws quite liberally. The good news is they typically bring you where you have to be, and after that, you will have a narrative to share. You will probably have a mild sunburn, a camera full of beach pictures, and a somewhat more profound respect for the erratic beauty of the Adriatic coast by the time you leave Durres. It is definitely not dull, not polished, not pompous. Durres will captivate you.