Guide to Albania

Albania is one of those places where you wonder why you waited so long to reserve a flight. It's like finding a secret level in a video game you believed you had finished. Just the coastline might persuade someone that the Mediterranean held a best-kept secret. It feels like you're betraying reality when the waters are crystal-clear, the beaches aren't flooded with Instagram influencers, and the towns look like they were plucked straight off a postcard.

Tirana, the capital, is a bit of a puzzle. On the one hand, vibrant cafes and bright buildings abound; on the other, Soviet-era architecture reminds you of the city's complex history. Walking across the main square, you may find yourself gazing at a monument and asking, "Who decided this goes here?" before realising you'll probably never know. The locals are gracefully unmoved by the uncertainty you're going through. Everyone seems to have mastered the art of going about life in a way that screams, "Yes, this is Albania, deal with it."

Albanian cuisine is a lovely shock. You haven't really lived until you've eaten byrek, a flaky, cheesy, spinach-filled pastry that makes every diet plan seem pointless. Baked lamb and yoghurt dish tavë kosi is comfort food on steroids; the fresh seafood along the shore practically murmurs your name. Good wine too. Like, suspiciously good given that half your trip was spent questioning how this nation had gone unreported for so long.

Should you enjoy nature, Albania will show you how small you are. If you are used to flat terrain, the Albanian Alps are spectacular, stunning, and deadly. Hiking here will challenge your patience, maybe your sense of direction, and, indeed, your physical condition. However, the views make it worth it. Then there's the south, where cities like Saranda appear Mediterranean enough to let you forget all about the mayhem of your life back home. It's difficult to resist the vibe created by olive groves, blue waters, and a leisurely speed of life.

Albania is one of the finest places, as it still feels unexplored. Wandering through historic ruins, discovering secret beaches, and taking in a coffee scene where the barista doesn't roll their eyes when you order a cappuccino with oat milk will all be possible. There are tourists, but not too many. And occasionally, you have the wonderful feeling of knowing a secret that travel blogs or social media haven't ruined.

Travel in Albania will surprise you. It will make you wonder about what you believe you know about Europe and maybe, in a calmer moment, about yourself. You'll leave with a camera full of pictures, a stomach full of great food, and a head secretly wishing you wouldn't have to tell everyone you know about Albania. Ultimately, that might be somewhat of the charm.