Exploring Australia's Cairns

If you find yourself in Cairns, you have likely either made a very conscious decision to visit the gateway of the Great Barrier Reef or you have simply followed the scent of salt air and sunscreen until you reached the end of the line in Far North Queensland. It is a place where the humidity gives you a free facial the moment you step off the plane and where the locals have a casual relationship with footwear that would make a British health and safety officer weep.

The city itself is a curious mix of tropical laid back vibes and high octane adventure. Most people start their journey at the Esplanade. It is a lovely stretch of waterfront where you can walk, jog, or more likely, sit and wonder why there are so many signs warning you about crocodiles. Because of those toothy locals, swimming in the ocean right at the city center is generally discouraged unless you want to become a snack, but the council has kindly provided the Lagoon. This massive saltwater swimming pool is the heart of the town. It is where everyone gathers to cool off and look across the mudflats at the Coral Sea, safely separated from anything that might find a human tasty.

Of course, you cannot come to Cairns and ignore the Great Barrier Reef. It is the literal elephant in the room, if the elephant were made of coral and visible from space. Heading out from the Reef Fleet Terminal on a catamaran like Ocean Freedom or the Passions of Paradise is a rite of passage. There is something deeply humbling about bobbing around in the middle of the ocean, peering through a mask at a neon world of parrotfish and turtles. It makes one realize that while we are busy worrying about emails, there is a giant clam out there just existing, and it is probably much more relaxed than we are.

When you have had enough of the salt water, it is time to head into the green. The Daintree Rainforest is just north of the city and is technically the oldest rainforest on the planet. Walking through it feels like stepping onto the set of a film where a dinosaur might pop out at any moment. Mossman Gorge is a particular highlight here. The water is crystal clear and icy cold, which is a magnificent shock to the system after the tropical heat. If you are lucky, you might spot a Cassowary. If you do, remember they are basically modern velociraptors with better headwear, so a respectful distance is advised.

For those who prefer their nature with a side of vintage charm, the Kuranda Scenic Railway is a must. The train winds its way up the range, through tunnels hand-carved over a century ago and past the spectacular Barron Falls. It is the kind of slow travel that forces you to actually look out the window instead of at your phone. To get back down, the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway offers a different perspective, gliding silently over the canopy. It is a bit like being a bird, only with much better seating and significantly less flapping.

As the sun sets, the city transforms. The food scene in Cairns has come a long way from the basic fish and chips of old. You might find yourself at a rooftop bar like Rocco for a cocktail with a 270 degree view of the water, or perhaps tucked into a booth at Miss Chief for some Asian-inspired shared plates. There is a real sense of community here, a feeling that everyone is just trying to enjoy the paradise they have found themselves in.

In the end, Cairns is not just a destination but a mood. It teaches you to slow down, to carry a raincoat even when the sun is shining, and to appreciate the fact that sometimes the best thing you can do is absolutely nothing at all while watching the fruit bats take flight at dusk. It is beautiful, slightly wild, and entirely unforgettable.