Holiday guide to Ulcinj in Montenegro.

If you have never heard of Ulcinj, do not be concerned; most people have not, which is what gives it its allure. This small village on Montenegro's southern coast is like the friend who quietly outshines everyone at the party but doesn't brag about their abilities. Ulcinj is a place where beaches, history, and a little bit of crazy Mediterranean beauty come together in a way that makes you wonder why you've been spending your vacations somewhere else.

Let's begin with the clear draw: the beach. Extending 12 kilometres, Velika Plaža, or Long Beach as the locals know it, is ridiculously lengthy and somewhat frightening should you really plan to stroll it. The vibe says, "Forget your email password and just float for a while;" the sand is soft; the water, a hypnotic turquoise hue. Some individuals seem to have quit at 30 only to master the skill of sunbathing; kite surfers treat it as a playground, and you'll sometimes see those who seem to have retired at 30. I really feel conflicted about them since I respect their commitment but also resent their perfect tans.

Once you have had enough sand, head into the ancient town, a tangle of small lanes and Ottoman-era architecture that somehow made it through centuries of government changes, wars, and maybe some bad interior design choices. A mosque, a fortress, and enough cobbled lanes to give you the impression of being in an actual escape room. You'll almost likely lose yourself. Most likely you will like it. Yes, there are a million cats, and yes, they are evaluating you.

The cuisine in Ulcinj is as strong as its past. Fresh seafood is almost a must, since why else would you inhabit the Adriatic and consume anything else? Fish, calamari, and shrimp are everywhere, and they are often served with a glass of local wine that is both very good and very cheap. Also, get ready for a local speciality called "pispili," a kind of flatbread that might look simple, but will make you question every flatbread you've ever tasted. A strange side effect of travel is that you might leave with a fresh appreciation for bread, but I'm not whining.

Ulcinj is somewhat unusual, too. Perfect for pictures that will make your pals back home jealous, or explore Ada Bojana, a river delta island noted for nudists and kitesurfers, the salt flats are pink and surreal. If you're not ready for wind, sand, and the odd sunburn, both are just as Instagrammable and just as somewhat scary.

I love Ulcinj the most because it tries not too hard. This is a place for itself, yet it openly greets visitors without arrogance. You'll leave with a sunburn, some perplexing but tasty dishes, and a sense of smug satisfaction since you've found a location most people can't even correctly name. That is Ulcinj's essence, my friends.