Exploring Copenhagen in Denmark.

Copenhagen might be your vision of heaven if you have ever dreamt of a town where bicycles outnumber people, pastries have practically a religious following, and fairy-tale architecture appears to spring forth from every canal. Or anarchy, depending on your feelings about being run over by a lycra-clad biker while attempting to capture a beautiful Instagram photo. Copenhagen is gorgeous indeed, but it comes with a slight nudge to remind you that life here runs on two wheels and perfect timeliness.

First of all, Nyhavn is clearly the one. Probably the most photographed location in Denmark is the picture-perfect harbour surrounded by candy-coloured structures. Tourists, me included, spend half an hour fantasising they are in a postcard before understanding that yes, those lovely boats are not moving, and no, you cannot rent that waterfront house for a weekend. Still, its popularity stems from the cause. Sitting at a café sipping a robust coffee and seeing the world drift by, you begin to see why Copenhageners are regarded as among the happiest people on Earth. Or perhaps it's only the coffee.

Then there's Tivoli Gardens, a theme park where it feels like you've wandered onto an antique film set. It's about mood lighting, fairy lights in trees, and that sense of nostalgia you never realised you possessed—not only about rides. A visit here brings with it a combination of pleasure and minor existential dread if you're over 30, as you understand you're a bit too old to scream on rollercoasters but can still enjoy a churro like an expert.

Copenhagen's food is a faith of its own. If you order one counting only lunch, get ready for an edible artwork; smørrebrød, the open-faced sandwich, is primarily an art form. Then Noma, which is either the best eating experience on earth or a reminder that some individuals are too brilliant for us mere mortals to grasp. The last time I tried to prepare an elegant meal at home, it felt like a sad science experiment.

The appeal of Copenhagen is modest. Walk through Christianshavn and you'll see canals that might persuade anyone they're in Venice, sans the gondola drama. Visit Freetown Christiania to find yourself among a free-spirited group that, against all odds, runs without anything going to absolute mayhem. And if you like biking, you haven't truly seen Copenhagen until someone has shouted at you for jaywalking as they deftly navigate traffic on two wheels.

Copenhagen, at the end of the day, is not about checking off sites. It's about celebrating little pleasures, getting a little lost in cobblestone streets, and once in a while admitting that yes, those Danes have somewhat mastered the art of living. The city somehow manages to be both welcoming and incredibly sophisticated at once, a mix that makes you want to either take notes or give up and enjoy it. I went for the bikes, the canals, and the churros; somehow, it was sufficient.

Copenhagen is the kind of place that catches you off guard and makes you fall in love in the tiniest, oddest ways. Walking could hurt your legs, almost hitting cyclists could hurt your ego a little bit, and a memory card full of pictures that don't do it justice might leave you with sore legs. Really, that's how things ought to be.