Before you travel, you believe you already know Belgium. You see beer, chocolate, waffles, and possibly a couple of medieval squares. Then you show up and are suddenly faced with the depressing, humiliating knowledge that you really know nothing. Belgium is tiny, yes, but it's also a fantastically complicated patchwork of languages, architecture, and subtle cultural peculiarities that leave you laughing, somewhat perplexed, and quite well fed.

Let us first discuss Brussels. Often referred to as the political heart of Europe, the capital seems great until you are really face-to-face with the European Parliament and see that it looks somewhat like a futuristic office park someone forgot to decorate. But if you stray from the bureaucrats, you'll discover cobblestone lanes covered with charming coffee shops, comic book murals, and shops offering pralines so exquisite that you momentarily debate changing the course of your life. Grand Place is as spectacular as everyone describes it. Tourists who insist on taking pictures while carefully retreating toward you are also drawn to it, but that is all part of the appeal.

Go north and you find Antwerp, a town that seems to have been planned by someone with great taste. It is known for its effortless coolness, diamonds, fashion, and an almost impossibly gorgeous train station. If you tried really hard that morning, Antwerp is the kind of town where you stop down for a coffee and find yourself underdressed right away. Still, nobody judges you. Looking chic and acting oblivious keeps them too occupied.

Then there is Bruges. Ah, Brugge. A city so beautiful it seems nearly artificial. The tourists are trying to recreate scenes from that movie, which they definitely should not quote in public, the medieval roofs, the canals, and the swans gliding along the water. In a lovely but slightly scary manner, Bruges celebrates its own perfection. You will snap far more pictures than you originally planned, as every view seems like it belongs on a postcard your grandma would frame.

Ghent, meanwhile, seems younger and a little less self-conscious. Medieval centre buzzes with activity as students whirl around on bicycles, and street art bursts up in unexpected places. If you want something vibrant without compromising the historic surroundings, this is the area to visit. You can appreciate the castle, meander along the quays, and briefly imagine you, too, might prosper on a bike in daily life.

Food is essential on any Belgian trip. Though you are familiar with fries and waffles, tasting them in Belgium is life-changing. Double-cooked, the fries have sauces deserving of their own fan groups. The waffles come in so many different kinds that you might wonder if you really liked any other dessert. Do not start me on the beer, either. Belgium regards brewing as an artistic expression, and even the most basic pub provides choices so sophisticated they merit study guides.

Though it is small, Belgium is skilled in surprising you at every turn. Go with an open mind and an empty stomach, and you will leave with both fulfilled.