Why Guayaquil in Ecuador makes a great vacation

Back in the 90's, Ecuador's biggest city Guayaquil, used to have a bit of a rough reputation. It was seen as a gritty port town, the kind of place you hurried through on your way somewhere else. But things have changed and Guayaquil has flipped the script in a massive way. The city underwent a huge urban renewal project around the turn of the millennium. They cleaned up the waterfront, poured money into public spaces and breathed new life into the historic neighbourhoods. Today it is not just a pitstop. It is a genuine destination, a place that grabs you by the senses and pulls you in.

Stepping off the plane, the first thing that hits you is the heat. It is a thick, tropical blanket that smells faintly of salt and roasting plantains. This is a city that lives and breathes on the Guayas River. You can feel the energy the moment you hit the streets. It is loud and chaotic in the best possible way. Yellow taxis weave through traffic, street vendors call out their daily specials and the air hums with the sound of salsa music spilling out of open doorways. It is the kind of humidity that makes you want to immediately order an ice-cold drink and just watch the world go by.

When it comes to dropping your bags and escaping that midday sun, you are completely spoiled for choice. The accommodation scene here has really levelled up recently. If you want to be right in the thick of it, you can book into one of the slick, modern high-rises down by the river. These places are all about crisp white sheets, floor-to-ceiling windows and rooftop pools where you can float around with a cocktail while looking out over the water. The air conditioning in these spots is fierce, which you will definitely appreciate after a few hours of exploring the streets below.

But if you prefer something with a bit more soul, head over to the Las Peñas neighbourhood. This is the oldest part of the city. Here you will find gorgeous little boutique hotels tucked inside brightly painted colonial houses. Think wooden balconies, internal courtyards filled with tropical plants and creaky hardwood floors. The amenities in these places are less about massive gyms and more about personalised service. You might get a massive breakfast of fresh papaya, eggs and strong local coffee served right on your patio. It feels intimate, like you are staying at a friend's really nice house rather than a faceless corporate hotel.

You cannot talk about Guayaquil without talking about the Malecon 2000. This is the crown jewel of that massive renewal project I mentioned earlier. It is a two-and-a-half-mile stretch of boardwalk that hugs the river, and it is absolutely packed with things to do. You have got gardens, monuments, shopping malls and an IMAX cinema all rolled into one massive public space. It is brilliant for a late afternoon stroll when the sun starts to dip and the whole city seems to come out to catch the river breeze. Grab a cup of shaved ice from a vendor, find a bench and just watch the river traffic. It is the best free entertainment in town.

The history of this riverfront is actually fascinating. Back in the day, Guayaquil was constantly being attacked by pirates. The city was a major shipbuilding hub for the Spanish empire, making it a prime target. You can still see hints of this swashbuckling past if you look closely. They even built a replica of an old pirate ship on the Malecon that you can walk around. It is a bit cheesy, sure, but it gives you a sense of just how wild this port used to be centuries ago before the shiny glass buildings took over.

Just a short walk from the river is Parque Seminario. Most people just call it Iguana Park. And yeah, it is exactly what it sounds like. Right in the middle of this busy commercial district, you have this lush green square that is completely overrun with massive green iguanas. They are everywhere. They lounge on the park benches, hang out in the trees and strut across the paved walkways like they own the place. It is completely surreal. You will see businessmen in suits eating their lunch right next to a three-foot lizard. The smell here is a bit earthy and musky, a mix of damp soil and whatever it is that iguanas smell like. It is a brilliant spot for photos, just watch your head if you are standing under a tree.

After you have had your fill of the lizards, you need to tackle Santa Ana Hill. Remember Las Peñas, that historic neighbourhood with the boutique hotels? It sits right at the base of this hill. To get to the top, you have to climb 444 numbered steps. It sounds like a lot, and in the Guayaquil humidity it definitely feels like a workout. But the climb is half the fun. The path winds up through narrow alleyways flanked by houses painted in crazy shades of blue, yellow and pink. Every few dozen steps there is a little bar or a cafe where you can stop, grab an ice-cold beer and catch your breath.

When you finally drag yourself to the top, the payoff is huge. There is a cute little lighthouse up there and a small chapel. But the real reason you do the climb is the view. You can see the whole city spread out below you, the river winding away into the distance and the modern skyline contrasting with the tin roofs of the older neighbourhoods. Try to time your climb for late afternoon. Watching the sunset from up there, with the city lights slowly flickering on, is one of those travel moments that really sticks with you.

All that climbing is going to make you hungry. Luckily, the food in Guayaquil is out of this world. Because it is a port city, seafood is the absolute star of the show. You have not really lived until you have tried a proper Ecuadorian ceviche. Unlike the Peruvian version, they serve it with a bit more of the citrusy, tomato-heavy juice here. It is tangy, refreshing and usually comes with a huge side of toasted corn and plantain chips for crunch. It is the perfect antidote to a hot afternoon.

Another massive local favourite is encocado. This is a rich, creamy seafood stew cooked in coconut milk and spices. It usually features crab or fish, and it comes out bubbling hot and smelling like heaven. You scoop it up with heaps of white rice. You will find it in fancy restaurants, but honestly, the best stuff usually comes from the little hole-in-the-wall joints where the menu is just a chalkboard on the wall. Do not be afraid to eat where the locals are eating. That is always where you find the most authentic flavours.

Now, let us talk about the elephant in the room. A lot of people only look at Guayaquil as a stepping stone. It is the main launchpad for flights out to the Galapagos Islands. And look, I get it. The Galapagos are a bucket-list destination. They are this incredible, isolated bubble of wildlife that you cannot find anywhere else on the planet. But treating Guayaquil as just a waiting room is a massive mistake. You are missing out on so much character if you just sleep at an airport hotel and leave the next day.

Think about the contrast. The Galapagos are all about raw nature, silence and strict rules about where you can go and what you can do. It is pristine and carefully managed. Guayaquil is the exact opposite. It is human, messy, loud and completely unregulated in its energy. Spending a few days here before you fly out to the islands gives you a much better feel for what Ecuador is actually about. You get to experience the culture, the food and the people in a way you just will not get when you are on a cruise ship looking at blue-footed boobies.

And practically speaking, it just makes sense. Flights to the islands leave early in the morning. If you try to connect straight through from an international flight, you are asking for trouble. A missed connection means you miss your boat. Coming into Guayaquil a few days early takes all the stress out of it. You can adjust to the time zone, get used to the heat and eat some incredible food while you wait. Plus, if you need to pick up any last-minute gear like a sun hat or some extra memory cards, the malls and markets here have absolutely everything you could ever need.

The city has this incredible knack for surprising you. You might turn a corner and find a quiet little plaza with a beautiful old church, or stumble across a street art mural that covers the entire side of a building. The people here are known for being fiercely proud of their city and they are incredibly welcoming to outsiders. They are always quick to point you towards their favourite seafood joint or warn you about which taxi to take. You get the sense that they know their city used to have a bad rap, and they are out to prove everyone wrong.

You can spend your mornings wandering through the sprawling Mercado Central. It is this massive indoor market where you can buy literally anything. Whole pigs hang from hooks, mountains of exotic fruits you have never seen before are stacked up on tables and the smell of fresh herbs and spices is almost overwhelming. It is chaotic, but it is real life. You can grab a freshly squeezed juice for pennies and just soak up the atmosphere.

In the afternoons you might head out to the Malecon del Salado. This is the other boardwalk in town, built along an estuary of the sea. It is a bit quieter than Malecon 2000, a bit more relaxed. You can rent a little paddleboat and cruise around the water, or just sit on the grass and watch the locals fishing. As evening rolls in, the bars around this area start to fill up. You can sit outside, nursing a drink and listening to live music while the heat of the day finally starts to break.

There is also a really cool artistic side to the city that often gets overlooked. Places like the MAAC, the Museum of Anthropology and Contemporary Art, are packed with incredible stuff. It is right at the end of the Malecon 2000 and it houses thousands of pre-Columbian artefacts along with modern Ecuadorian art. It is a brilliant way to spend a few hours escaping the midday heat while actually learning something about the deep history of the region before the Spanish ever arrived.

For nature lovers who want a tiny preview of the Galapagos, the Guayaquil Historical Park is a must-visit. It is not really a traditional park. It is a mix of a zoo, a nature reserve and a living museum. They have recreated the old architecture of the city from the 19th century, right down to the colonial houses that were rescued and rebuilt on site. You can walk along wooden boardwalks through mangrove forests and spot sloths, monkeys and tropical birds. It is a surprisingly peaceful oasis right in the middle of this sprawling metropolis.

Nightlife in Guayaquil is another beast entirely. Ecuadorians know how to party, and the weekends here are loud and long. If you head over to the Urdesa neighbourhood, you will find streets lined with bars, clubs and late-night food stalls. The energy is infectious. Even if you are not a big clubber, just sitting at an outdoor table with a drink, watching the cars cruise by and listening to the reggaeton pumping out of the doorways is an experience. It is the perfect way to burn off some of that holiday excitement.

So yes, book that flight to the Galapagos. It will be the trip of a lifetime. But do yourself a favour and carve out at least three or four days for Guayaquil first. Pack light, breathable clothes and prepare to sweat a bit. Bring an open mind and a big appetite. Let the city wash over you. Walk the boardwalks, climb the steps, eat the street food and hang out with the iguanas. You will quickly realise that this loud, hot, beautiful city is way more than just a gateway. It is a destination that absolutely deserves to be explored in its own right.