Visitors guide to Bucharest.

People often say Bucharest is “underrated,” which usually translates to you walking about, wondering just what you are supposed to find amazing. But wait a day or two, and the place creeps upon you. Romania's capital combines broad boulevards, Belle Époque architecture, concrete from the communist era, and hip modern coffee shops that seem to grow with every blink. It's amusing, lovely, sometimes perplexing, and always entertaining.

Begin in the Old Town, which while not old in the classical sense, is old enough to have attitude. The cobblestones have a romantic yet slightly ankle-threatening form. You can bounce between bars that look like they were decorated by folks who gather vintage radios for fun and traditional restaurants serving enormous cabbage rolls. It's energetic at night, too loud if you want something peaceful, but ideal if you like some happy turmoil.

The Palace of the Parliament is among Bucharest's most bizarre sights. It's big. In fact, enormous might not even cut it. It is the sort of building that causes one to wonder whether someone lost a bet and was compelled to prove a point by designing the biggest conceivable structure with the most enormous chandeliers. Although most people could hardly locate toilet paper at the time, tours transport you through magnificent rooms apparently constructed for emperors. You will undoubtedly experience a moment when you whisper to yourself. I find it hard to believe this is true.

Head to one of the city's several parks if the concrete becomes too hard. Herastrau Park surrounds a lake that invites you to take a moment to reflect on life or, at the very least, consider indulging in a pretzel from a local shop. Local people jog, picnic, or sit on benches observing ducks with the same intensity as if they were viewing a sporting event. Rent a bike, ready for a bit of anarchy and a good laugh as you avoid groups walking four across, like they just formed an unofficial human barricade.

Food is a highlight; you must certainly sample sarmale mici and papanasi, which are essentially doughnut-like treats covered in sour cream and jam. Their flavour is considerably superior to what the description implies. Excellent coffee is also found in other cafés where baristas are pretty serious about it. Whether you inquired or not, they will not hesitate to go through the notes of your brew at great length.

Still, Bucharest's vibe is the finest thing about it. The city does not claim to be ideal. It has scars from historical traffic, is powered by improvisation, and has sidewalks that sometimes feel like a puzzle. But while shrugging and saying, well, this is who we are, take it or leave it, there is warmth in the people's creativity in odd places and a sense that the city is continually changing itself.

Come with a flexible attitude and a sense of curiosity. Bucharest appreciates the visitor who enjoys a little bit of lovely imperfection and who loves a place with stories that gradually and occasionally comically reveal themselves.