Reviewing Kaunas in Lithuania.
Among those cities you travel to, believing it would be a brief visit, is Kaunas: a coffee, a walk, perhaps a courteous nod at a museum. Then, suddenly, you blink and three days have gone by, and you are enthusiastically informing strangers about architecture from the interwar era. Though I am not saying Kaunas adds anything to the water, I am also not saying that.
The city is in the centre of Lithuania, which makes it feel like the backstage of the country already. That adds to its allure. Vilnius gets the limelight; Klaipeda gets the sea; Kaunas gets to do its thing quietly without much effort. And to be honest, the city carries that attitude beautifully.
Begin with Laisvės Alėja. It is a pedestrian route that feels like half the nation. You continue walking and thinking, definitely this is the end, but no. More trees, more coffee shops, more individuals walking as though they have really nothing else important to do. Get a coffee at one of the outdoor locations and enjoy people-watching, a very European pastime. Students, families, elderly couples going for their daily stroll, and at least one person strolling a tiny dog with a rather big attitude will all be visible.
From there, travel to the Old Town. It's small, easy to explore, and full of that imperfect charm that makes you feel like you stumbled into a postcard. Standing at the centre, looking sleek and somewhat theatrical, the Town Hall, also known as the White Swan, even when no one is taking pictures, seems to be the kind of structure that is posing.
The Ninth Fort Museum is a must if you appreciate your history with some sense of feeling. Though it's not a cheery halt, it's crucial. The large monument outside appears capable of flying across the horizon, and the exhibits recount significant events. You will depart carefully, silently, possibly a little windblown.
Kaunas offers many contemporary inventions to help regulate the attitude. Surprisingly vibrant is the street art scene. Spend enough time wandering around and you will see enormous murals peering out at you from flats and alleyways. Turning a corner and finding a giant painted fox or a bizarre bus-sized portrait is rather wonderful.
Then there's also the food. Though it's pretty on brand, Kaunas doesn't brag about its food scene, but it does deliver. You can go classic with cepelinai that seem like a warm embrace from a person with mighty arms. Alternatively, you might check out the growing number of contemporary eateries that use regional ingredients in creative ways. Either path will leave you full and a little proud of yourself.
As the journey draws to a close, you might find yourself wondering when you will return. Kaunas knows how to do that. It creeps into your thoughts, not with glitzy sights but with a relaxed demeanour that seems real. This is a city that avoids trying to impress you. It simply does.
