Review of holidays in Kilkenny.

If you ever find yourself roaming the emerald stretches of Ireland and wonder, "Sure, why not pop in somewhere small with cobblestone streets and more history than I could shake a stick at," Kilkenny is your kind of place. Tucked away in the southeast of the nation, it's a city that somehow manages to be both delightfully tiny and shockingly full of things you didn't realise you wanted to do. I mean, who knew medieval walls could be so photogenic, or that drinking craft beer could be seen as cultural enrichment?

First, Kilkenny Castle. You cannot get around it, primarily since it hangs over the city like a courteous but determined relative who insists you go on a tour even if you pledged to yourself you would only “pop in for a quick peek.” The castle is beautiful; its ochre walls and neatly kept gardens seem like they were planned by someone who spends their weekends meticulously arranging flowers in impossibly perfect patterns. Walking through the rooms, it's easy to imagine you belong to a long-lost royal family, but the reality is more often like trying not to fall over the polished floorboards while wondering how anyone lived without central heating.

Kilkenny offers more contemporary delights if you grow weary of picturing yourself in a velvet gown or doublet, or if history isn't your thing. The city is famous for its craft breweries and cosy pubs, where the bartenders are patient enough to tell you the difference between a stout and a porter as if your life depended on it. Though the environment is relaxed, it is also somewhat serious, as if the city as a whole concluded that having a pint is a cultural responsibility rather than just a pleasure.

People who love art won't be left pouting either. Kilkenny has several galleries and the National Craft Gallery, which makes ceramics, glasswork, and jewellery seem rather dangerously beautiful. As you stroll, you might wonder whether you actually need another pair of socks, given that you might spend about as much as your monthly food bill on a hand-blown glass vase. Spoiler: Since I am not that bold, I passed it up.

Those who love to meander will find the medieval mile a total delight. Tiny stores, cafés, and historic structures along streets provide the sort of atmosphere that makes you wonder why you ever believed major cities were superior. Visit a coffee shop, taste a regional speciality, and imagine you have all the time in the world, even though the real world outside might be criticising you for not responding to emails.

Kilkenny manages to strike a contemporary vibrancy with its ancient history. In the morning, you could visit historic castles; lunch might feature a craft beer; and the evening should be at a live music session that feels personal and a little messy, exactly how life should be. Going to Kilkenny is like reading a book that is both funny and educational; sometimes you wonder why your own city isn't quite as exciting. It's little, it's odd, and it won't apologise for it, which is precisely why you'll leave with a smile, a few pictures, and a hazy plan to come back someday.