Reviewing Hungary's best holiday destinations.

Hungary is one of those countries that catches you off guard. You believed you were visiting Budapest for a weekend, and suddenly you find yourself two weeks in, drinking pálinka, gazing at a paprika-covered plate and questioning how you ended up loving a nation whose name you still cannot correctly say. Let's be honest, Hungary does have some identity problems. Half of it comes from Eastern Europe, the other half from the Mediterranean, with a little bit of Vienna thrown in, just because, why not.

Budapest is the clear place to begin since, well, it resembles a movie set and smells somewhat like chimney smoke and roasted chestnuts during the winter. The Danube divides the city into two, Buda and Pest, which can be a little confusing at first, as it sounds like a medieval conflict, but actually it's simply hills on one side and flat, busy streets on the other. The building is an exquisite blend of grandeur and a little rot. Often on the same street, you'll discover residences that make you wonder about humanity's idea of comfort and palaces that surprise you. Although they demand an existential surrender, the thermal baths are essential. You undress, go into a steamy pool with strangers, and just like that, your most crucial life choice is whether to float idly or be the person who awkwardly splashes everyone.

If you're adventurous, head beyond the city. Lake Balaton is affectionately known as the Hungarian Sea. This sounds spectacular until you recall it is a lake. It's ideal for summer since it has everything from sunbathing to sailing while also secretly judging your poor swimming technique. Charming settlements abound in the Hungarian countryside, where time appears to pass at the rate of paprika drying in the sun. For example, Tokaj is a wine country, and yes, they will judge you if you don't enjoy it responsibly. This usually means sipping slowly and acting like you understand what "sweetness balanced by acidity" actually means.

Hungarian food is an event unto itself: Code for really hearty, sometimes suspiciously red, and sure to make you doubt your cholesterol levels. Though goulash is the first thing that comes to mind, do yourself a favour and try lángos—a deep-fried dough marvel that tastes like delight with a dusting of regret. Particularly risky are the chimney cakes among the pastries. One sweet spiral at a time, you believe you are consuming one, but actually, it is devouring you.

Public transportation is quick but sometimes feels like a personality test. Budapest's metro rides resemble a side of small anarchy with a live-action historical lesson. If you can find your way around it without seeming perplexed, you have earned the right to be referred to as a temporary local.

Hungary lacks the glitz of Paris and the romance of Venice. This is the sort of area that permeates your system with paprika, hot waters, and unexpectedly good wines. You may come believing you're only checking off yet another European nation. Still, somewhere between the Danube nights and the ruin bars, you'll find you've been captivated and probably somewhat permanently.